Beautiful by name, beautiful by nature, la belle France is still turning heads.

Whether it's gastronomic greatness, artistic endeavour or cultural cachet you're looking for, there's no doubt that France still sits right at the top of the European heap. France is the country for which the word chic was invented - seductive and aloof, old-fashioned and forward-looking, but always characterised by a certain je ne sais quoi.

The country that gave the world champagne, casseroles and Camembert is justly famous for its cooking, and you'll find there are plenty of places to indulge yourself. But while France is undoubtedly a place to eat and drink to your heart's content, there's much more to this fascinating country than cutting-edge cuisine.

Government

President: Nicolas Sarkozy
Prime Minister: Francois Fillon

Environment

Latitude: 48.52
Area: 547030sqkms
Population: 60400000

Society

People:

92% French, 3% North African, 2% German, 1% Breton, 2% other (including Provençal, Catalan & Basque)

Language spoken (official): French

French is the official language and spoken by everyone; regionally however you will come across Flemish, Alsacian, Breton, Basque, Catalan, Provençal and Corsican as well.

Language spoken (other): Catalan
Language spoken (other): Basque
Language spoken (other): Breton
Language spoken (other): Corsican

Women tend to attract more unwanted attention than men, but female travellers need not walk around France in fear; people are rarely assaulted on the street. Be conscious of your surroundings and aware of situations that could be potentially dangerous: deserted streets, lonely beaches, dark corners of large train stations and so on. Using the metros late at night is generally OK, as stations are rarely deserted, but there are a few to avoid, including Châtelet-Les Halles and its seemingly endless corridors; Château Rouge in Montmartre; Gare du Nord; Strasbourg St-Denis; RÉaumur SÉbastopol; and Montparnasse Bienvenüe.

In some places women may have to deal with what might be called low-intensity sexual harassment: 'playful' comments and invitations that can become overbearing or aggressive in tone, and which some women find threatening or offensive. Remain polite and keep your distance. Hearing a foreign accent will likely provoke further unwanted attention.

Be alert to vibes in cheap hotels, sometimes staffed by apparently unattached men who may pay far more attention to your comings and goings than you would like. Change hotels if you feel uncomfortable, or allude to the imminent arrival of your husband (whether you have one or not). On overnight trains, you may prefer to ask (when reserving) if there's a women's compartment available. If your compartment companions are overly attentive, don't hesitate to ask the conductor for a change of compartment. Second-class sleeping cars offer greater security than a couchette.

You can reach France's national rape crisis hotline (tel 0 800 059 595) toll-free from any telephone without using a phonecard. It's run by a Paris-based women's organisation called Viols Femmes Informations (9 villa d'Este, 13e; metro Porte d'Ivry).

The police (tel 17) will take you to a hospital if you have been attacked or injured.

France is one of Europe's most liberal countries when it comes to homosexuality, in part because of the long French tradition of public tolerance towards people who choose not to live by conventional social codes. Paris has been a thriving gay and lesbian centre since the late 1970s. Montpellier, Lyon, Toulouse, Bordeaux and many other towns also have significant active communities. Predictably, attitudes towards homosexuality tend to become more conservative in the countryside and villages. France's lesbian scene is much less public than its gay counterpart and is centred mainly around women's cafes and bars, which are the best place to find information.

Gay Pride marches are held in major French cities each June and there are a number of useful gay and lesbian publications: Action Act Up has a free monthly publication, Guide Gai Pied A French, with information and issues, and English-language travel guide Lesbia is a women's monthly with articles and useful listings. Online, www.gayscape.com (in French) has hundreds of links, while www.france.qrd.org is a 'queer resources directory' for gay and lesbian travellers.

France is not well equipped for handicapÉs (disabled people): kerb ramps are few and far between; older public facilities and budget hotels often lack lifts; cobblestone streets are a nightmare to navigate in a wheelchair; and the Paris metro, most of it built decades ago, is hopeless. But disabled people who would like to visit France can overcome these difficulties.

The French government has increased efforts to improve conditions for disabled people, creating the national Tourisme et Handicap rating. This classification is given to sites, restaurants and hotels that meet strict requirements and standards: different symbols indicate whether the establishments have access for people with physical, mental, hearing and/or seeing disabilities. Places marked Accessible normes handicapÉs subscribe to certain access standards, but the rating is not officially verified.

With the SNCF, a traveller in a wheelchair (fauteuil roulant) can travel in both TGV and regular trains (make a reservation at least a a few hours before departure). Details are available in SNCF's booklet Guide du Voyageur à MobilitÉ RÉduite. You can also contact SNCF AccessibilitÉ (tel 0 800 154 753) which has information (French only) for travellers with physical, sight and hearing disabilities.

France is generally child-friendly but children are expected to behave themselves in public. Chain restaurants such as Hippopotamus and Bistro Romain are casual and serve the kind of food that most kids like. Take drinks with you on sightseeing days to avoid costly cafe stops. Picnics can be a great way to feed the troops and enjoy local produce.

The weekly entertainment magazine L'Officiel des Spectacles advertises babysitting services (gardes d'enfants) in Paris. It's out on Wednesday and is available at any newsstand.

Most car-rental firms in France have children's safety seats for hire at a nominal cost, but it is essential that you book them in advance. The same goes for high chairs and cots (cribs); they're standard in most restaurants and hotels but numbers are limited. The choice of baby food, infant formula, soy and cow's milk, disposable nappies (diapers) and the like is as great in French supermarkets as it is back home, but the opening hours may be quite different. Run out of nappies on Saturday afternoon and you could be facing a long and messy weekend.

As an alternative to hotels, you might prefer renting a self-contained apartment or gÎte (cottage), which provides a comfortable base for exploring an area and makes you less reliant on eating out. The fancier camping grounds have pools and childrens' facilities.

Include the kids in the trip planning: if they've helped to work out the itinerary and activities they will be much more interested when they get there.

See

From the top of the tower to the top of the Alps it's all divine.

Some have made seeing France their life's work. There's so much divine art, breathtaking architecture, stirring history, ancient folk festivals, vivid gardens and inspiring churches that you could easily lose yourself for years. It also had some surprisingly wild corners, notably the Camargue delta.

Economy

Currency notes:

Euro notes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. It is often difficult to get change for a Euro500.00 note.

Currency coins:

One euro is divided into 100 cents or centimes. Coins of 1, 2 and 5 centimes are copper-coloured; coins of 10, 20 and 50 centimes are gold-coloured; 1 and 2 euro coins are gold-and-silver coloured. It's a good idea to keep a supply of various coins for parking meters, laundrettes, tolls etc.

Sample Prices

Credit and debit cards are convenient and relatively secure. Visa and MasterCard (Access or Eurocard) are widely accepted; AmEx cards are useful at more upmarket establishments. In general, all three cards can be used in shops, supermarkets, for train travel, car rentals, autoroute tolls and cash advances. Remember you'll need to know your PIN number (le code) to use a credit card in many hotels, shops and restaurants.

The cheapest and most convenient way to change money in France is via ATMs (known as DABs in French); they accept all the major international credit and bank cards. You get the best exchange rate by using a credit card for purchases and a debit card for cash. Travellers cheques are safe and almost universally accepted, especially in larger towns and tourist centres; they also offer better exchange rates than cash. Post offices that exchange travellers cheques give a good rate. Major train stations and fancy hotels also have exchange facilities which usually operate in the evening, at the weekend and during holidays, but the rates are generally poor.

Tips:

The land of the Euro5.00 cafÉ au lait is not exactly Europe's cheapest destination, but that doesn't mean you have to break the bank to visit. Devoted scrimpers can get by on around Euro50.00 per day, though it means a whole lot of brie-and-baguettings in the park. For a more well-rounded culinary experience and a comfy bed or two, a minimum of Euro90.00 is in order. Of course, for the Dom Perignon crowd, those figures might not cover even the day's pourboires - count on dropping Euro200.00 and up if you're really living large. Student and senior citizen discounts are common. Whatever your budget, figure on everything being up to 50% more expensive in Paris.

Tipping:

The land of the Euro5.00 cafÉ au lait is not exactly Europe's cheapest destination, but that doesn't mean you have to break the bank to visit. Devoted scrimpers can get by on around Euro50.00 per day, though it means a whole lot of brie-and-baguettings in the park. For a more well-rounded culinary experience and a comfy bed or two, a minimum of Euro90.00 is in order. Of course, for the Dom Perignon crowd, those figures might not cover even the day's pourboires - count on dropping Euro200.00 and up if you're really living large. Student and senior citizen discounts are common. Whatever your budget, figure on everything being up to 50% more expensive in Paris.

Pre-departure

When to go

Spring offers the best weather to visitors, with beach tourism picking up in May. Temperatures aren't too bad in autumn, although the short days mean limited sunlight and the cold starts to make itself felt towards the end of the season, even along the Côte d'Azur. Winter means playing in the snow in France's Alps and Pyrenees, though the Christmas school holidays send hordes of tadpoles in uniform scurrying for the slopes. Mid-July through to the end of August is when most city dwellers take their annual five weeks' vacation to the coasts and mountains, and the half-desolate cities tend to shut down a bit accordingly. The same happens during February and March.

Visas

Nationals of the EU, the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Israel do not need visas to visit France as tourists for up to three months. Except for the citizens of a handful of other European countries, everyone else must have a visa.

To apply, you'll need a passport (valid for a period of three months beyond your departure date from France), a ticket in and out of France, proof of money and possibly of accommodations, two passport-sized photos and the visa fee in cash.

Tourist visas cannot be extended except in emergencies (eg medical problems). You might try calling the PrÉfecture de Police (tel 01 53 71 51 68; www.prefecture-police-paris.interieur.gouv.fr) for guidance.

If you don't need a visa to visit France, you'll almost certainly qualify for another automatic three-month stay if you take the train to Geneva or Brussels and then re-enter France.

Customs

There are strict rules governing what can be brought through customs into France. Some items affected by these laws include animals, plants, food and medicines. For detailed information in French and English visit www.douane.gouv.fr.

Duty free

The usual allowances apply to duty-free goods purchased at airports or on ferries outside the EU: tobacco (200 cigarettes, 50 cigars or 250g of loose tobacco), alcohol (1 litre of strong liquor, 2 litres of wine), coffee (500g, or 200g of extracts) and perfume (50g of perfume and 0.25 litres of eau de toilette).

The allowances are more generous for duty-paid items bought at normal shops and supermarkets in another EU country and brought into France, where the goods might be more expensive.

Electricity voltage: 230V

Electricity HZ 50Hz

Events

The festive French never knowingly turn down the opportunity for a party, and the national calendar is packed to the brim with all manner of festivals, fairs, holidays and cultural events. Many cities host music, dance, theatre, cinema or art events each year. Rural villages hold fairs and fetes, which celebrate everything from local saints to agricultural progress. Prominent national holidays include May Day (1 May), when people trade gifts of muguet (lily of the valley) for good luck; and Bastille Day (14 July), which commemorates the storming of the Bastille in 1789 with plenty of fireworks and outdoor parades.

Regional events include the primping and preening prêt à porter fashion show in Paris (early February); the Cannes Film Festival (mid-May), when Hollywood's glitterati descend on the French Riviera en masse; the Deauville American Film Festival (September), a much lower-key affair than its dressy cousin in Cannes; the International Music Festival in Strasbourg (first three weeks of June); the mainstream and fringe theatre of the Festival d'Avignon (mid-July to mid-August) and the Jazz Festival in Nice (late-July/early August).

May Day (official holiday) 1 May

Fête de la Musique (festival/event) 21 Jun

International Film Festival (festival/event) mid May

Festival Interceltique (festival/event) Jul

Braderie de Lille (festival/event) Sep

Fêtes de Bayonne (festival/event) July

Activities

From the snowy peaks, rivers, lakes and canyons of the Alps to the striking mountains and volcanic peaks of the Massif Central - not to mention 3,000km (1864mi) of coastline from the Mediterranean to the Straits of Dover - France's stunning scenery lends itself to adventure sports and exhilarating outdoor activities of all kinds.

Tours

Coast to Coast

The Atlantic to the Mediterranean in a week - 2500km (1553mi) in all - is no mean feat, but one that rewards with stunning vistas, some superb coastal motoring and sensational seafood. For those with more time to play with, activities abound in, on and out of the sea.

Step off the boat in Calais and there's 40km (25mi) of stunning cliffs, sand dunes and windy beaches - not to mention great views of those white cliffs of Dover across the Channel - on the spectacular Côte d'Opale. Speed southwest next, taking in a cathedral-stop in Rouen, a fish lunch in Dieppe or a picturesque cliff-side picnic in Étretât on the Côte d'Albatre on your way to your overnight stop: one of Normandy's prettiest seaside resorts - Honfleur, Deauville or Trouville. Devote day two to the D-Day landing beaches and abbey-clad Mont St-Michel. If island-life is more your cup of tea, push on to Brest or Camaret instead, from where you can sail to Brittany's hauntingly beautiful Île d'Ouessant. Equally tempting to Robinson Crusoes is Belle Île, with its fantastic rock formations, caves and beaches.

A long drive south along the Atlantic Coast rewards you with chic La Rochelle and its lavish portside feasts of seafood and oysters. In Royan, catch a ferry across the water to Soulac-sur-Mer, a happening seaside resort from where it is simply a matter of wining your way through the MÉdoc to bustling Bordeaux - city of fine food, wine, museums and nightlife. Next morning, continue south through Toulouse and Carcassonne to the Med. The flamingo- and horse-studded Camargue, immediately west of Marseille, is a unique patch of coast to explore - and a far cry from the glitz and glamour of the Riviera further east.

Weather

France has a predominantly temperate climate, with mild winters, except in mountain areas and the northeast. The Atlantic has a profound impact on the northwest, where the weather is characterised by high humidity, often violent westerly winds and lots of rain. France's northeast has a classic continental climate, with fairly hot summers and cold winters. Midway between the two, the Paris basin boasts the nation's lowest annual precipitation, but rainfall patterns are erratic. The southern coastal plains are subject to a pleasant Mediterranean climate: frost is rare, spring and autumn downpours are sudden but brief and summer is virtually without rain. The south is also the region of the mistral, a cold, dry wind that blows down the Rhône Valley for about 100 days a year. Relentless and unforgiving in spring, it is blamed for sending people into fits of pique.

Communication

Dialling code: 33

Dialling out: 00

To call French cities from outside France, dial your country's international access code + 33 (France's country code) + local number (minus the initial 0).

A quarter of a century ago, France had one of the worst telephone systems in Western Europe. But thanks to massive investment in the late 1970s and early 1980s, the country now has one of the most modern and sophisticated telecommunications systems in the world. Public payphones only work with a pre-paid card (tÉlÉcarte) , which you can buy in tabacs, shops and post offices.

The French jack has a protruding wing on one side shaped like a 'T'. The opposite side has the same shape inverted. A standard RJ-11 socket is found on one end.

Mobile network: GSM 900/1800

France uses the GSM 900/1800 cellular phone system, compatible with phones sold in the UK, Australia and most of Asia, but not those from North America or Japan. To use your cell phone in France, ensure you request 'international roaming' from your provider before you leave home. Mobile phones in France always begin with 06.

Alternatively, cellular and satellite phones are available for rent or sale in Paris. France Telecom is among the big players in the industry, and their Itineris GSM cellular phone service works across Europe.

Media

Public licence fees subsidise public broadcaster France TÉlÉvisions, which controls 40% of the market with its three TV channels - France 2, 3 and 5 (Arte after 7pm). Yet in the face of increasingly stiff competition from private broadcasters such as TF1 and M6, its future looks bleak.

Until 2003, cable TV operators could not transmit to more than eight million households each. With this restriction lifted, cable and satellite TV services are expected to grow 127% by 2007 to reach 15.9 million households. TV via broadband ADSL is the other big sell: France TÉlÉcom's video-driven MaLigne tv was launched in Lyon in 2003 and in Paris the year after.

As in Britain, there is a strong distinction between broadcasting and print media. The press, like TV and radio broadcasters, are independent and free of censorship.

Periodicals

Le Figaro (newspaper)

Centre-right; aimed at professionals, businesspeople and the bourgeoisie.

Le Monde (newspaper)

Centre-left; very popular with businesspeople, professionals and intellectuals.

Le Parisien (newspaper)

Centre; middle-class, easy to read if your French is basic.

France Soir (newspaper)

Right; working- and middle-class.

LibÉration (newspaper)

Left; popular with students and intellectuals.

L'HumanitÉ (newspaper)

Communist; working-class.

Paris Match (magazine)

A gossipy, picture-heavy boulevard-style weekly seemingly devoted to the royal family in Monaco.

TV systems: PAL

Radio Stations

Radio France

Public radio is grouped under the umbrella of Radio France, which broadcasts via a network of 53 radio stations, of which five are national: France Inter, France-Culture, France-Musique (which broadcasts over 1000 concerts each year), Radio Bleue for over-50s listeners and France Info, a 24-hour news station that broadcasts the news headlines in French every few minutes.

Radio Nova (101.5 MHz FM)

Hard-core clubbers turn the dial to Radio Nova for the latest on the nightclub scene.

BBC World Service and BBC for Europe (648 kHz AM)

The old British bulldog of the radio waves.

Paris Jazz (98.1 MHz FM)

Something for the jazz fans.

Books

The French (Author: Theodore Zeldin)

This is a much-trumpeted study of national passions, peculiarities and perspectives.

A Sentimental Journey (Author: Laurence Sterne)

A digressive and fanciful account of the author's 1765 coach tour through France and Italy.

Travels with a Donkey (Author: Robert Louis Stevenson)

A reminder of the connection between hoofing it through remote regions and the increasing prettiness of Eeyore.

A Little Tour in France (Author: Henry James)

This is a classic work of travel literature about France.

Flaubert's Parrot (Author: Julian Barnes)

A highly entertaining novel that pays homage to the great French writer Flaubert.

The Autobiography of Alice B Toklas (Author: Gertrude Stein)

Gertrude Stein memorably recounts her years in Paris.

A Moveable Feast (Author: Ernest Hemingway)

A portrayal of bohemian life in Paris between the wars.

France Toda (Author: John Ardagh)

An exhaustive review of all aspects of modern-day French society.

Down and Out in Paris and London (Author: George Orwell)

A penetrating and poignant look at down-at-heel Paris in the late 1920s.

The Food of France (Author: Waverly Root)

First published in 1958, this is a very tasty - indeed, the definitive - region-by-region introduction to French cuisine.

The Second Sex (Author: Simone de Beauvoir)

A pioneering work on women's position in society that helped inspire the modern feminist movement.

Feminism in France (Author: Claire Duchen)

A reasonably contemporary exposition which charts the progress of feminism in France from 1968 to the mid-1980s.

Citizens (Author: Simon Schama)

For the dynamics of political history, check out this influential and truly monumental work that examines the first few years after the storming of the Bastille in 1789.

A History of Modern France (Author: Alfred Cobban)

This readable three-volume set covers the period from Louis XIV to 1962; the best of the general studies of French history.

Tropic of Cancer (Author: Henry Miller)

Along with Tropic of Capricorn, this is one of Miller's 'sexy' novels set in Paris.

A Year in Provence (Author: Peter Mayle)

A best-selling account that takes a witty, patronising and very English look at the French.

The Unknown Tour de France: The Curious Story of the Worl'ds Biggest Bicycle Race (Author: Les Woodland)

An alternative and often giggle-worthy slant on France's greatest cycling race.

Le Rouge et le Noir (Author: Stendhal (Marie-Henri Beyle)

The story of the rise and fall of a poor young man from the provinces who models himself on Napoleon. A must read classic of 19th-century french literature.

Joan of Arc: By Herself and her Witnesses (Author: Regine Pernoud (English translation by Edward Hyams)

Letters, testimonies and trial notes from the 15th century document the meteoric rise and fall of Joan of Arc.

Mont Blanc: Discovery and Conquest of the Giant of the Alps (Author: Stefano Ardito)

Portrays France's most magnificent mountain in all its soaring splendour. 200-odd pages of stunning photographs.

Corsica: Portrait Of A Granite Island (Author: Dorothy Carrington)

Beautifully-written overview of Corsica's culture, history and people, penned by a British historian-writer who lived most of her life on the island.

DVD Zone: Zone 2: Europe, Japan, South Africa, Israel, Lebanon, Middle East

Transport

getting there and away (ferry)

By sea, the quickest passenger ferries and hovercrafts to England run between Calais and Dover, and Boulogne and Folkestone. There are numerous routes linking Brittany and Normandy with England. Portsmouth is linked by car ferry to Cherbourg, Caen and St Malo. Other regular routes include Plymouth to Roscoff, Poole to Cherbourg, Weymouth to St Malo, and Newhaven to Dieppe. Ferries also ply the waters between France and Ireland (Cherbourg-Cork), the Channel Islands, Sardinia (Marseille-Porto Torres), Italy (Corsica-Genoa) and North Africa (Marseille-Algiers, Marseille-Tunis, Sète-Tangier).

getting there and away (plane)

Scores of national and international airlines link Paris with every part of the globe. Other French cities with direct international air links include Bordeaux, Lyon, Marseille, Nice, Strasbourg and Toulouse. Several low-cost airlines operate regular routes to major cities across France.

getting there and away (train)

Paris is the country's main rail hub, with services to/from every part of Europe. The completion of the Channel Tunnel in 1994 has meant travel between England and France - on the ultra-modern Eurostar rail service - is now quick and hassle-free.

getting around (underground rail)

Local transport includes the cheap and efficient Metro and RER underground networks in Paris (there are also metro lines in other cities).

getting there and away (bus)

Paris is the country's main bus hub, with services to/from every part of Europe. Buses are slower and less comfortable than trains, but they are cheaper, especially if you qualify for the 10% discount available to people under 26 or over 60 or hunt around for discount fares. The Chunnel has high-speed shuttle trains that whisk coaches from England to France.

getting around (plane)

France's domestic airlines link most urban centres, and since the long-protected domestic airline industry has been opened up, discounts have made internal air travel an option even for budget travellers.

getting around (bus)

Interregional bus services are limited, but buses are used extensively for short-distance travel within regions, especially in rural areas with relatively few train lines (eg, Brittany and Normandy). On longer trips, buses tend to be much slower but slightly cheaper than trains; on short runs, buses are generally slower and more expensive.

getting around (car)

Having your own vehicle can be expensive, and is sure to be inconvenient in city centres where parking and traffic are problematic. Be warned that most driving in France is done with the horn, or 'French Brake Pedal', as it is often called. As a rule of thumb, don't be timid or overly respectful once on the road as this technique will often confuse the natives. Renting a car is expensive if you walk into an office and hire a car on the spot, but prebooked and prepaid promotional rates are reasonable.

getting around (train)

France has an excellent rail network, operated by the state-owned SCNF (SociÉtÉ Nationale des Chemins de Fer), which reaches almost every part of the country. Thanks to the high-speed TGV (train à grande vitesse), travel between some cities (eg, Paris and Lyon) is faster and easier by rail than by air.

getting around (boat)

Another relaxing way of seeing France is to cruise its canals and navigable rivers by houseboat. These usually accommodate four to 12 passengers and can be rented for a weekend or several weeks.

getting around (bicycle)

France is an eminently cyclable country, due largely to its extensive network of secondary and tertiary roads that are relatively lightly trafficked.

getting around (motorcycle)

France is a superb country for motorcycle touring, with winding roads of good quality and lots of stunning scenery.

getting there and away (overview)

Air France and scores of other airlines link Paris with every section of the globe. Other French cities with international air links (mainly to places within Europe) include Bordeaux, Lyon, Marseille, Nice, Strasbourg and Toulouse. In France, inexpensive flights offered by discount airlines and charter clearing houses can be booked through many regular travel agents.

If you are doing a lot of travel around Europe, look for discount bus and train passes, which can be combined with discount airfares.

Buses are slower and less comfortable than trains, but they are cheaper, especially for people under 26, over 60, teacher and students.

Rail services link France with every country in Europe; schedules are available from major train stations in France and abroad. You can book tickets and get information from Rail Europe (www.raileurope.co.uk, www.raileurope.com) up to three months ahead.

Tickets for ferry travel to/from the UK, Channel Islands and Ireland are available from most travel agencies in France. In some cases, return fares cost less than two one-way tickets.

getting around (overview)

Air France (tel: 0820 820 820; www.airfrance.com) controls the lion's share of France's domestic airline industry although British budget carrier easyJet has flights linking Paris with Marseille, Nice and Toulouse.

France is eminently easy to cycle around. On train timetables, a bicycle symbol indicates that bicycles are allowed on particular trains. The SNCF baggage service Sernam (tel: 0825 84 58 45) will transport your bicycle (or any other luggage) door-to-door or station-to-station for a fee.

Buses are used quite extensively for short-distance travel within dÉpartements, especially in rural areas with relatively few train lines (eg Brittany and Normandy) - but services are often slow and few and far between.

Having your own wheels brings freedom but it's expensive, and city parking and traffic are frequent headaches. Many of France's main motorways are subject to tolls based on the distance travelled - remember to factor in these costs if you're driving long-distance. Motorcyclists will find France great for touring: the websites www.viamichelin.com and www.autoroutes.fr both calculate how much you will pay in petrol and tolls for specified journeys. To hire a car in France you'll generally need to be over 21 years old and hold a valid driver's licence and an international credit card. Your credit card may cover CDW if you use it to pay for the car rental.

France's superb rail network reaches almost every part of the country. Many towns and villages not on the SNCF train and bus network are linked by intra-dÉpartmental bus lines. France's most important train lines radiate from Paris like the spokes of a wheel, making train travel between provincial towns situated on different 'spokes' rather slow. In some cases, you have to transit through Paris.

Culture

History Before 20th Century

Humans have inhabited France for about 90,000 years. The Celtic Gauls arrived between 1500 and 500 BC; after several centuries of conflict with Rome, Gauls lost the territory to Julius Caesar in 52 BC, and by the 2nd century AD the region had been partly Christianised. In the 5th century the Franks (thus 'France') and other Germanic groups overran the country.

The Middle Ages were marked by a succession of power struggles between warring Frankish dynasties. The Capetian Dynasty was a time of prosperity and scholarly revivalism despite continued battles with England over feudal rights. During this period, France was also embroiled in the Crusades, a holy war instigated by the Church against non-Christians. The Capetian Dynasty waned by the early 15th century as France continued to fight England in the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453), which featured 17-year-old firebrand Jeanne d'Arc.

Religious and political persecution, culminating in the Wars of Religion (1562-98), continued to threaten France's stability during the 16th century. In 1572, some 3000 Protestant Huguenots were slaughtered in Paris. The Huguenots were later guaranteed religious, civil and political rights. By the early 17th century the country was held in thrall by Cardinal Richelieu, who moved to establish an absolute monarchy and increase French power in Europe.

Louis XIV (the Sun King) ascended the throne in 1643 at the age of five and ruled until 1715. Throughout his reign, he hounded the Protestant minority, quashed the feuding aristocracy and created the first centralised French state. But as the 18th century progressed, the ancien rÉgime (old order) became dangerously out of sync with the rest of the country, and was further weakened by the Enlightenment's anti-establishment and anticlerical ideas. France's involvement in the Seven Years' War (1756-63) and the American War of Independence (1776-83) was financially ruinous for the monarchy, and the latter provided ammunition for opponents of French absolutism.

When the king tried to neutralise the power of reform-minded economists, the urban masses took to the streets. On 14 July 1789, a Parisian mob attacked the Invalides, seized weapons and stormed the Bastille prison, the ultimate symbol of the despotism of the ancien rÉgime. At first, the Revolution was in the hands of moderates, but from this milieu emerged the radical Jacobins, led by Robespierre, Danton and Marat. They established the First Republic in 1792, holding virtual dictatorial control over the country during the Reign of Terror (1793-94), which saw mass executions and religious persecution. Ultimately the Revolution turned on its own, and many of its leaders, including Robespierre and Danton, were pruned by Madame la Guillotine.

Buoyed by a series of military victories abroad, mercurial Napoleon Bonaparte assumed domestic power in 1799, sparking a series of wars in which France came to control most of Europe. Ultimately, a disastrous campaign against Russia in 1812 led to Bony's downfall - he was banished to the tiny Mediterranean island of Elba. His escape and reinstallation as Emperor lasted 100 days before he was defeated by the English at Waterloo. The English exiled him to the remote South Atlantic island of Saint Helena, where he died in 1821. Napoleon is remembered as a great hero not so much for his military gusto but because he preserved the bulk of changes wrought by the Revolution and promulgated the Napoleonic Code, which remains the basis of the French legal system.

During the 19th century, France was characterised by inept government, quixotic wars and the founding of the Third Republic (1870). The importance of the army and the church was reduced, and separation of church and state was instituted. Around the same time, the Entente Cordiale ended colonial rivalry between France and Britain in Africa, creating a spirit of cooperation.

Modern History

France's involvement in WWI came at high cost: over a million troops were killed, large parts of the country were devastated, industrial production dropped and the franc was seriously devalued. The country fared little better during WWII, when it capitulated to Germany and the lackey Vichy government was installed. General Charles de Gaulle, France's under-secretary of war, set up a government-in-exile and underground resistance in London. France was liberated by Allied forces in mid-1944.

De Gaulle returned to Paris and set up a provisional government, but resigned as president in 1946. Emboldened by American aid, the French reasserted colonial control in Indochina, but their forces were defeated by Ho Chi Minh's cadres at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. France also tried to suppress Algerian independence. De Gaulle returned to power in 1958 and negotiated an end to the war in Algeria four years later; in the meantime, almost all of the other French colonies in Africa had achieved independence.

In May 1968, student protesters and striking workers surprised themselves and the world at large by bringing the country to a standstill. Just as anarchy was poised to engulf France, De Gaulle went on national television and told everybody to calm down, go home and leave the running of the country to him. And they did. The government then reformed the higher education system, and De Gaulle resigned as president the following year.

Resilient socialist François Mitterand was France's president from 1981 to 1995. In May 1995 he was succeeded by Jacques Chirac, who defeated the demoralised socialists and Jean-Marie Le Pen's anti-immigrant Front National (FN). A series of bombings in Paris and Lyon from July 1995 by terrorists protesting French support of the Algerian government contributed to anti-foreigner sentiment and lent a false legitimacy to the FN's racist stance.

Chirac strongly endorsed the European Union (EU), which raised his popularity, but his decision to conduct nuclear tests on the Polynesian island of Mururoa towards the end of 1995 was met with a local and international outcry. France's Pacific and Caribbean colonies have beefed up their independence rumblings, with Tahiti a recent site of particular agitation. Domestically, limits which Chirac imposed on the welfare payment system resulted in the country's largest protests since 1968. Strikes throughout the public sector over several weeks in late 1995 brought Paris to a standstill and affected the economy so badly that France's qualifications for joining the EU looked dubious.

Chirac called a snap election early in 1997, under the pretence of seeking a mandate for the final push towards meeting economic monetary union (EMU) controls. However, he did not count on the fickleness of the French people and his RPR party was ousted from government (though Chirac remains president) by an unlikely alliance between the socialists, communists and Greens.

Recent History

The nation was thrust into the international spotlight with the death of Diana, Princess of Wales, in a car accident in Paris in August 1997, and the country's first-ever World Cup victory (3-0 over odds-on favourite Brazil) in July 1998.

Presidential elections in 2002 were a shocker with racist demagogue Jean-Marie Le Pen of the FN claiming 17% of the national first round vote. In the run-off poll left-wing voters - without a candidate of their own - went for 'lesser-of-two-evils' Chirac to give him 82% of votes.

In early 2003 France was once again in the world spotlight when it insisted it would veto any UN security council resolution to go to war with Iraq. The US was rather miffed by this, and relations between France and the US remain cool.

In May 2005, a national referendum on the proposed European Constitution was soundly rejected by French voters, causing huge embarrassment to the government, and placing a considerable question mark over the country's resolutely pro-European future.

In October and November 2005, the country was rocked by several weeks of violent clashes between police and gangs of disenfranchised young people across France. The riots were sparked by the deaths of two teenagers of North-African descent who were electrocuted while apparently attempting to hide from the police, and began in the poor, ethnically-diverse banlieues (suburbs) of Paris, but quickly spread to several of the country's major cities.

In May 2007 conservative Nicolas Sarkozy convincingly defeated socialist Segolene Royale in the presidential election. The former interior minister is seen by supporters as a charismatic, dynamic leader and by opponents as a divisive, power-hungry neo-con. High on his list of priorities is rebuilding the Franco-American relationship, severely damaged by France's unreserved opposition to the Iraq War, and reinvigorating the French role in Europe.

Factoid

Hair to the Throne

The mighty Merovingians ruled in France from the 5th to the 8th centuries. The mark of royalty at that time was unshorn locks; hence they were often referred to as the 'Long-Hair Kings'. Warriors wore their hair short.

Places of Interest

Pont d'Avignon

Summary Review:

The pont St-BÉnÉzet was built between 1177 and 1185 to link Avignon with the settlement across the Rhône that later became Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. Yes, this is also the Pont d'Avignon mentioned in the French nursery rhyme. Many people find a distant view of the bridge from the Rocher des Doms or Pont Édouard Daladier much more interesting (and it's free).

MusÉe Claude Monet

Summary Review:

The MusÉe Claude Monet was Monet's home and studio. The hectare of land that Monet owned has become two distinct areas. The northern part is the Clos Normand where Monet's famous pastel pink and green house and the Water Lily studio stand, surrounded by the symmetrically laid-out gardens. Through the tunnel is the resplendent Jardin d'Eau (Water Garden).

MusÉe National Message Biblique Marc-Chagall

Summary Review: Housing the largest public collection of works by the Russian painter Marc Chagall (1887-1985), the museum was built in 1972 to hold the Biblical Message Cycle, a collection of 17 enormous canvases inspired by the Old Testament. Chagall's style is nothing short of magical; brightly coloured goats, violins and floating humans.

Full Review:

Be sure to peek through a plate-glass window across a reflecting pond to view a mosaic of the rose window at Metz Cathedral.

CathÉdrale de Notre Dame de Paris

Summary Review:

This is the heart of the city, a French Gothic masterpiece and the focus of Catholic Paris for seven centuries. Built on a site occupied by earlier churches - and, a millennium before, a Gallo-Roman temple - it was begun in 1163 and completed in the 14th century. Distances from Paris to every part of France are measured from place du Parvis Notre Dame.

Château de Versailles

Web site: www.chateauversailles.fr

Summary Review:

The splendid, enormous Château de Versailles was built in the mid-17th century during the reign of Louis XIV - the Roi Soleil (Sun King) - to project the absolute power of the French monarchy, which was then at the height of its glory. Its scale and dÉcor also reflect Louis XIV's taste for profligate luxury and his boundless appetite for self-glorification.

Full Review:

The chateau at Versailles counts 700 rooms, 2153 windows, 352 chimneys and 67 staircases under 11 hectares of roof set on 800 hectares of garden, park and wood, including 200,000 trees and 210,000 flowers newly planted each year. There are 50 fountains and 620 fountain nozzles. The walls and rooms are adorned with 6300 paintings, 2100 sculptures and statues, 15,000 engravings and 5000 decorative art objects and furnishings.

Château de Chambord

Web site: www.chambord.org

Summary Review:

The Loire Valley was the playground of French nobility, who used the nation's wealth to transform the area with many earnestly extravagant chateaux. The largest and most lavish is the Château de Chambord (1519). It was built by King François I, a rapacious lunatic who was fanatically dishonest with his subjects' money.

Full Review:

Begun in 1519, its Renaissance flourishes may have been inspired by Leonardo da Vinci, who lived nearby from 1516 until his death three years later. Construction of the chateau, during which François unsuccessfully suggested the rerouting of the Loire River so it would be nearer to his new abode, took 15 years and several thousand workers, although the king died wizened and drooly before the building's completion.

Inside is a famed double-helix staircase that buxom mistresses and priapic princes chased each other up and down, when not assembled on the rooftop terrace to watch military exercises, tournaments and hounds and hunters returning from a day's deerstalking. From the terrace you can see the towers, cupolas, chimneys, mosaic slate roofs and lightning rods that comprise the chateau's imposing skyline.

Basilique Ste-Madeleine

Web site: www.vezelaytourisme.com

Summary Review:

Perched on a rocky spur crowned by slender buildings, and surrounded on all sides by rolling fields, the glorious hilltop village of VÉzelay is one of France's hidden gems. VÉzelay has been an important point of pilgrimage since the 11th century thanks to the relics of St Mary Magdalene, which are supposedly housed in the underground crypt of the Basilique Ste-Madeleine.

Full Review:

The Basilique itself has had a turbulent history. It had already been rebuilt several times between the 11th and 13th centuries, before being comprehensively trashed by the Huguenots in the 16th century before narrowly avoiding total desecration during the French Revolution. By the mid-19th century it was on the verge of total collapse; thankfully the philanthropic architect Viollet-le-Duc stepped in and helped restore the Basilique to its former glory. Today it's one of France's best-preserved (and most beautiful) churches - even if you're not in the slightest bit religious, it's hard not to be moved by the haunting sound of plainsong echoing from the abbey's ancient walls.

MusÉe de la Tapisserie de Bayeux

Summary Review:

Here it is, the world-famous Bayeux Tapestry recounting the dramatic story of the Norman invasion and the events that led up to it (from the Norman perspective). It is housed in the MusÉe de la Tapisserie de Bayeux along with other treasures of the region.

Abbaye du Mont St-Michel

Summary Review:

It's difficult not to be impressed with your first sighting of the massive abbey, a soaring ensemble of buildings in a hotchpotch of architectural styles. The abbey is topped by a slender spire with a gilded copper statue of Michael the Archangel slaying a dragon. At night the whole structure is brilliantly illuminated.

Eiffel Tower

Web site: www.tour-eiffel.fr

Summary Review:

The Tour Eiffel faced massive opposition from Paris' artistic and literary elite when it was built for the 1889 Exposition Universelle (World Fair), marking the centenary of the Revolution. It was almost torn down in 1909 but was spared because it proved an ideal platform for the transmitting antennas needed for the new science of radiotelegraphy.

Full Review:

The Eiffel Tower, named after its designer, Gustave Eiffel, is 324m (1063ft) high, including the TV antenna at the tip. This figure can vary by as much as 15cm, however, as the tower's 10,000 tonnes of iron, held together by 2.5 million rivets, expand in warm weather and contract when it's cold.

The Club Alpin Français

Web site: www.clubalpin.com

Summary Review:

The Club Alpin Français has a centre in Paris with useful information - joining is probably worthwhile if you're doing a great deal of hiking.

Australian Embassy

Web site: www.austgov.fr

FÉdÉration Nationale des GÎtes de France

Web site: www.gites-de-france.fr

Summary Review:

Several types of accommodation - often in charming, traditional-style houses with gardens - are available through GÎtes de France for people who would like to spend time in rural areas and who have a vehicle.

Groupement pour l'Insertion des Personnes HandicapÉes Physiques

Summary Review:

Provides vehicles outfitted for people in wheelchairs; the national office will put you in touch with local services.

Ski France

Web site: www.skifrance.fr

Summary Review:

Paris-based Ski France has information and an annual brochure covering more than 50 ski resorts.

Insurance

Summary Review:

Unlimited third-party liability insurance is mandatory for all automobiles entering France, whether the owner accompanies the vehicle or not. As proof of insurance, the owner must present an international motor insurance card showing that the vehicle is insured in France. A temporary insurance policy is available from the vehicle-insurance department of the French Customs Office with a validity of eight to 30 days.

Canadian Embassy

Web site: www.amb-canada.fr

Maison des Femmes

Summary Review:

The women-only Maison des Femmes is the main meeting place for women of all ages and nationalities.

FÉdÉration Unie des Auberges de Jeunesse (FUAJ)

Web site: www.fuaj.org

Summary Review:

One of France's major hostel associations FÉdÉration Unie des Auberges de Jeunesse (FUAJ)will require you to have or purchase an Hostelling International card or a nightly Welcome Stamp. You can bring your own sleeping sheet or rent one for a small fee. Centre d'Information et de Documentation Jeunesse (CIDJ)

Web site: www.cidj.com

Summary Review:

The Centre d'Information et de Documentation Jeunesse (CIDJ) provides all sorts of information for young people on jobs, housing, education and more: in 2004 they advertised 20,000 summer jobs on their website.

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