Story-book charm, cultural clout and a whole lot of gravitas.

Germany wears its riches well: elegant big-city charm, small picture-postcard towns, pagan-inspired harvest festivals, a wealth of art and culture and the perennial pleasures of huge tracts of forest, delightful castles and fine wine and beer are all there for the savouring.

Deep in the heart of Europe, Germany has had a seminal impact on Continental history. From Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Empire to Otto von Bismarck's German Reich, Nazism and the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall, no other nation has moulded Europe the way Germany has - for better or worse.

"The reason there is so little crime in Germany is that it's against the law. " - Alex Levin

Government

Chancellor: Angela Merkel
President: Horst Köhler

Environment

Area: 357021sqkms
Population: 82398000

Society

People:

Predominantly Caucasian, with a significant Turkish minority. Germany has also absorbed many refugees from the former Yugoslavia.

Language spoken (official): German

Germany is generally a safe place for women to travel, even alone and even in the cities. Simply use the same common sense that you would at home. Getting hassled in the streets happens infrequently and is usually limited to wolfwhistles and unwanted stares. In crowded situations, ie on public transport or at events, groping is a rare possibility. Going alone to cafes and restaurants is perfectly acceptable, even at night. In the cities at least, bars and clubs don't have to be off-limits either. If you don't want company, most men will respect a firm but polite 'no thank you'. If someone continues to harass you, protesting loudly will often make the offender slink away with embarrassment - or will at least draw attention to your predicament.

Germans are fairly tolerant of homosexuality, but gays (Schwule) and lesbians (Lesben) still don't enjoy quite the same social acceptance as in certain other northern European countries. As elsewhere, cities are more liberal than rural areas, and younger people more tolerant than older generations.

Berlin is by far the gayest city in Germany, if not in all of Europe, but Cologne also has a lively scene and there are smaller but still vibrant ones in Hamburg, Frankfurt and Munich. In those cities gay couples holding hands or kissing in public is becoming more common and raises fewer eyebrows. Discrimination is more likely in eastern Germany and in the conservative south where gays and lesbians tend to keep a low profile. Germany's gay movement took a huge step forward in 2001 with the passing of the Life Partnership Act, sometimes called the 'gay marriage'. It gives homosexual couples the right to register their partnership at the registry office and to enjoy many of the same rights, duties and protections as married couples.

Overall, Germany caters well for the needs of people with disabilities (Behinderte) , especially people who use wheelchairs. You'll find access ramps and/or lifts in many public buildings, including train stations, museums, theatres and cinemas. Newer hotels have rooms for mobility-impaired guests with extra-wide doors and spacious bathrooms. However, other disabilities (such as blindness or deafness) are not as well catered for, and German organisations representing people with disabilities continue to lobby for improvements.

The web page of the German National Tourism Office (www.germany-tourism.de) has an entire section dedicated to information about vacationing in Germany with a disability (under Travel Tips) with helpful links. Many local and regional tourism offices also have special brochures for people with disabilities. The Deutsche Bahn operates a Mobility Service Centre (tel 01805-512 512) whose operators can answer questions about station and train access, and can help you plan a route requiring minimal train changes. With one day's notice, they can also arrange for someone to meet you at the station and assist you in any way necessary. Generally, all ICE trains and most IC/EC, IR and S-Bahn trains can accommodate people in wheelchairs. Guide dogs are allowed on all trains. In cities, U-Bahns and buses are becoming increasingly wheelchair-friendly as well.

In Germany, discounts for children and families are widely available for everything from museum admissions to bus and train fares and hotel accommodation. The definition of 'child' varies, though. Some places consider anyone under 18 eligible for discounts, while others put the cut-off at age six, 12 or 15. Most car-hire firms have children's safety seats for hire from about Euro5.00 per day, but it is essential that you book them in advance. Highchairs are standard in most restaurants and cots (cribs) in most hotels, but numbers are limited.

Childcare and babysitters are widely available. Check the Yellow Pages under Babysittervermittlung or, better yet, ask your hotel's reception staff for a referral. The choice of baby food, infant formulas, soy and cow's milk, disposable nappies and the like is great in German supermarkets, but keep in mind their restricted opening hours. Run out of nappies on Saturday afternoon and you're facing a very long and messy weekend.

Bringing your kids, even toddlers, along to casual restaurants is perfectly acceptable, though you might raise eyebrows at upmarket ones, especially at dinner time. Breastfeeding in public is practised, especially in the cities, although most women are discreet about it.

See

From the heights of city slickness to the depths of the woods.

Germany's landscape is straight from the Brothers Grimm: castles in the air, deep dark forests, fabled rivers. Its capital Berlin has history that encroaches achingly on the present and a culture so now it's almost tomorrow, and its other major cities are havens of fine art and fine living.

Economy

Currency notes:

Euro notes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. It is often difficult to get change for a Euro500.00 note.

Currency coins:

One euro is divided into 100 cents or centimes. Coins of 1, 2 and 5 centimes are copper-coloured; coins of 10, 20 and 50 centimes are gold-coloured; 1 and 2 euro coins are gold-and-silver coloured. It's a good idea to keep a supply of various coins for parking meters, laundrettes, tolls etc.

Sample Prices

Large shops, petrol stations and hotels usually take credit cards but Germans are still less credit card-friendly than other Europeans so keep a supply of cash on hand. The plethora of ATMS will kindly oblige you with adequate Euros.

All the major international brands of plastic - MasterCard, Visa and American Express - are becoming more widely accepted, but don't assume that you'll be able to use your card to pay for things; inquire first. ATMs are ubiquitous throughout Germany and you should have no problem accessing your credit or debit account back home. Foreign currency, including travellers cheques, can be exchanged at some banks and at exchange bureaux (eg Reisebank branches) in major cities.

Tips:

It's easy to spend lots of money in Germany. If you stay in hostels, have some sort of rail pass and restrict yourself to cheap takeaways or prepare your own food, it's possible to get by on Euro50.00 a day. Those with more capacious wallets wishing to eat at mid-range restaurants most days, visit museums at will, travel freely by public transport and stay in mid-range hotels with fluffy duvets should count on dropping at least Euro100.00 a day. Driving will add significantly to expenses, though for three or more people car travel is cheaper per kilometre than taking the train.

Tipping:

It's easy to spend lots of money in Germany. If you stay in hostels, have some sort of rail pass and restrict yourself to cheap takeaways or prepare your own food, it's possible to get by on Euro50.00 a day. Those with more capacious wallets wishing to eat at mid-range restaurants most days, visit museums at will, travel freely by public transport and stay in mid-range hotels with fluffy duvets should count on dropping at least Euro100.00 a day. Driving will add significantly to expenses, though for three or more people car travel is cheaper per kilometre than taking the train.

When to go

Germany is a fine destination year-round, but most people visit between May and September when sunny skies are most likely and much of life moves outdoors. Beer gardens and cafes bustle at all hours; outdoor events and festivals enliven cities and villages; and hiking, cycling and swimming (in lakes or pools) are popular pursuits - at least as long as the weather plays along. Remember that rain is a possibility in any month. The flipside of summer travel is, of course, larger crowds at museums and other attractions and traffic jams at places such as Lake Constance. Accommodation needn't be hard to come by unless you're drawn to beach and mountain resorts popular with German holiday-makers.

The shoulder seasons (from March to May and from October to early November) bring fewer tourists, lower accommodation prices and often surprisingly pleasant weather. In April and May, when flowers and fruit trees are in bloom, it can be mild and sunny. Indian summers that stretch well into autumn are not uncommon.

With the exception of winter sports, activities between November and early March are likely to focus more on culture and city life. In these months, skies tend to be gloomy and the mercury often drops below freezing. On the plus side, there are fewer visitors and shorter queues (except in the winter resorts). Just pack the right clothes and keep in mind that there are only six to eight hours of daylight. In December the sun (if there is any) sets around 3:30pm.

Visas

EU citizens can enter on an official identity card. Americans, Australians, Canadians, New Zealanders, Japanese and Israelis just need a valid passport (no visa). Unless you're a citizen of a developing country, you can probably stay up to three months.

Customs

German customs prohibits the private importation of firearms and ammunition, fireworks, 'literature of unconstitutional content', pornography, food, narcotics, medicines, dangerous dogs, pets (unless they have been appropriately vaccinated), animal products and counterfeit goods. For more detailed information, check out www.zoll.de.

Duty free

Articles that you take to Germany for your personal use may be imported free of duty and tax with some conditions. The following allowances apply to duty-free goods purchased in a non-European Union (EU) country: 1L of strong liquor or 2L of less than 22% alcohol by volume and 2L of wine (if over age 17); 500g of coffee or 200g of coffee extracts and 100g of tea or 40g tea extracts (if over age 15); 50g of perfume or scent and 0.25L of eau de toilette; 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250g of loose tobacco (if over age 17). Additional products up to a value of Euro175.00 may be brought in.

Do not confuse duty free with duty-paid items (including alcohol and tobacco) bought at normal shops and supermarkets in another EU country and brought into Germany, where certain goods might be more expensive. Then the allowances are more than generous: 800 cigarettes, 200 cigars or 1kg of loose tobacco; 10L of spirits (more than 22% alcohol by volume), 20L of fortified wine or apéritif, 90L of wine or 110L of beer; and petrol reserves of up to 10L.

Note that duty-free shopping within the EU was abolished in 1999. This means that you can still take duty-free goods into an EU country, such as Germany, from a non-EU country such as the USA or Australia. You can't, however, buy duty-free goods in an EU-country unless you're headed for a non-EU country.

Electricity voltage: 230V

Electricity HZ: 50Hz

Health

Dangers and Annoyances

Germany is a very safe country to live and travel in, with crime rates that are low by international standards. Most crimes occur in big, densely populated cities, with Berlin leading the pack, followed by Hamburg, Cologne, Munich and Frankfurt.

Theft and other crimes against travellers are rare, although keeping an eye out for pickpockets in crowded places is always wise. Train stations tend to be magnets for the destitute and drug-dependent who might harass you or make you feel otherwise uncomfortable, especially at night. City parks should also be avoided after dark.

Encounters with groups of intoxicated soccer fans, especially those whose team has just lost, can lead to unprovoked confrontations. Skinheads, called Glatzen (literally 'baldies'), are another potential source of conflict as they too tend to have sudden violent outbursts, especially against people they perceive as 'foreign-looking'. These individuals have also been known to infiltrate otherwise peaceful political demonstrations and to provoke fights simply for their own amusement. Because of their erratic and unpredictable behaviour, keeping your distance from such hooligans is a smart move. If you do find yourself in a threatening situation, try not to provoke these people; get away from the scene as fast as possible and notify the police.

Events

Germans love to party, and kick up their heels at everything from pagan harvest romps to black tie opera galas. The Winter Carnival (Fasching) season occurs throughout Germany, with big cities such as Cologne (Köln), Munich and Mainz erupting into commotion just before Ash Wednesday.

Germany's rich musical heritage is showcased in a plethora of festivals. Some towns concentrate on a particular composer, such as the Thuringian Bach Festival in Erfurt in March or the Richard Wagner Festival in Bayreuth each July, whereas others focus on a particular style. The jazz festivals in Stuttgart (July) and Berlin (early November) are lively and popular.

Autumn is a great time for harvest-inspired mayhem, especially in the Rhineland, where the five Rhine in Flames extravaganzas feature barges laden with fireworks. Mention must be made of Oktoberfest, Munich's annual lager frenzy, but it's a bit like being stuck in an endless soccer crowd and is more an example of mass tourism catering to the lowest liquid denominator than a display of German culture. Christmas markets, with their twinkling lights and steaming mulled wine (Glüwein) are embraced wholeheartedly by German families; they occur in Munich, Nuremberg, Lübeck, Berlin, Münster, Heidelberg, Rüdesheim and Stuttgart, amongst other places.

Fasching (Winter Carnival) (festival/event) just before Ash Wednesday

Thuringian Bach Festival (festival/event) Mar

Richard Wagner Festival (festival/event) Jul

Stuttgart Jazz Festival (festival/event) Jul

Berlin Jazz Festival (festival/event) Nov

Activities

The Germans invented naturism and getting outdoors and active, with or without clothes, is a national obsession. Try cycling, hiking, mountaineering, skiing and horse riding - you'll find the trails and facilities impeccable. A cruise along some of Germany's great rivers is a more laid-back option. Another of Germany's cultural traditions - the spa - is an excellent way to recover from any kind of exertion.

Tours

Castles in the Air

Until unification in 1871, Germany was a mosaic of fiefdoms whose overseers ruled from the comfort of a Schloss (palace) or Burg (castle). A sentimental favourite among Germans is the Wartburg in Eisenach, most famous as the site where Martin Luther translated the Bible while in hiding. Less well known is Schloss Weesenstein near Dresden, which has its own brewery and 'upstairs-downstairs' exhibits about life at court. Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam is a perennial crowd pleaser, not least because of its charming gardens. You'll find a similar setup at the baroque Schloss Charlottenburg in Berlin, home of the Prussian Hohenzollern clan. The family's ancestral seat - Burg Hohenzollern - is near Tübingen. From a distance, it looks medieval and mysterious, but it's actually a 19th-century neo-Gothic confection, the original long having been destroyed. A similar fate befell Schloss Heidelberg, although much of it survives as a romantic ruin. For more romance, visit the robber barons' hang-outs along the Romantic Rhine, especially the labyrinthian Burg Rheinfels and the pristine Marksburg which, like the Burg Eltz, has never been destroyed. Other outstanding castles include King Ludwig II's delightful Schloss Linderhof and Schloss Schwerin and the Versailles-inspired Residenzschloss in Ludwigsburg.

Weather

Germany is not prey to dramatic climatic extremes, although there are regional differences. The most reliably good weather is from May to October, with high summer a good bet for mid 20°C (low 70°F) shorts-and-t-shirt conditions, even in the north. Autumn is a good time to visit Germany. As the tourist scrum disperses and the forests turn golden, it's not too stifling to be active but still warm enough to leave you thirsty for a few well-deserved steins. Winter is frosty and wet, especially in the south, with snow rarely settling for long except in the high country.

Communication

Dialling code: 49

Dialling out: 00

Deutsche Telekom - Germany's one-time state controlled telephone monopoly - has been privatised and forced to swim alongside other phone companies in the race for the consumer's eurocents. Call costs have in turn come down and the range of services on offer make the German market very user friendly.

Be prepared to buy phone cards if you anticipate using phone booths, as many now do not take coins. Cards can be purchased in post offices, TKS Shops, Telefonladens, Internet cafes and various newsstands and stationery stores.

The German phone adaptor has an off-balance arrow shape with a small fork protruding from one edge. Older adaptors are being phased out as the North American RJ-11 adaptor grows in use.

Mobile network: GSM 900/1800

The GSM 900/1800 system is the network standard for Germany; it is not compatible with North American or Japanese systems, with a few exceptions. The NMT system, which runs at 450Mhz can still be found in some areas of Germany. GSM coverage by all major carriers is comprehensive; a daunting array of choices is available when it comes to hand-sets, long and short term contracts, SIM cards and pre-paid cards.

Driving while using a mobile phone without a 'hands-free' kit is against the law in Germany.

Media

Private broadcasters have competed with public broadcasters in Germany since 1987, creating one of Europe's most competitive and packed TV broadcasting markets. All but 10% of the country's 34 million TV households have the pick of scores of private channels, many received free by cable or satellite.

Print media has a strong regional bias, with few publications being available nationally. The few national daily newspaper are generally awful.

German radio is much like that of many other Western countries. Pop, rock, adult contemporary and treacly German-crooner oldies dominate, with classical and opera offerings at the lower end of the dial. The inevitable Morning Zoo format is in great vogue here, so during commuting time you're bound to hear jovial German DJs giggling, honking horns and making fart noises.

Periodicals

Bild (newspaper)

Pure sensationalism (an actual headline: 'Sex Waves From Space!')

Die Welt (newspaper)

One of the higher-quality nationals, but very conservative.

Die Zeit (newspaper)

An excellent weekly newspaper with in-depth reporting on everything from politics to fashion.

Der Spiegel (magazine)

A widely read weekly magazine that offer solid investigative journalism between covers often featuring scantily clad models.

TV systems: PAL

Radio Stations

BBC World Service

The Beeb is probably the best choice for English news. The frequency will vary depending on your location though 648 kHz AM often works, especially in the west and at night.

National Public Radio

NPR has programs in English and features the excellent international news program Morning Edition. It can be accessed through cable channel 22, and, thanks to the American Forces Network, on AM radio (and some FM frequencies) - see American Forces Network.

American Forces Network

AFN radio, aimed at US military personnel serving in Germany, broadcasts NPR programming, talk radio, something called the Pentagon Channel and lots of acronym-filled military public service announcements. It can be picked up in and around cities such as Frankfurt (873 kHz AM), Kaisterslautern (1107 kHz AM), Mannheim, Stuttgart (1143 kHz AM) and Berlin.

Books

The Origins of Modern Germany

(Author: Geoffrey Barraclough)

An excellent introduction to the country's complex history.

The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich

(Author: William Shirer)

The powerful landmark history of Hitler's reign, written by an eyewitness.

The Germans

(Author: Gordon A Craig)

An insight into the German character with great cultural details.

Berlin and the Wall

(Author: Ann Tusa)

A saga about the events, trials and triumphs of the Cold War, the building of the Wall and its effects on the people of Berlin.

Faust

(Author: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe)

The original tale of a pact with the devil gone (surprise, surprise) horribly wrong.

The Threepenny Opera

(Author: Bertolt Brecht)

A fine example of Brecht's 'alienated' theatre. Listen to Kurt Weill while reading it.

The Tin Drum

(Author: Günter Grass)

A stunning examination of the post-war German psyche; these days it would be called magic realism.

Perfume

(Author: Patrick Süskind)

The extraordinary tale of a psychotic 18th-century perfume maker.

A Tramp Abroad

(Author: Mark Twain)

The great humourist's comical observations of German life.

I Will Bear Witness: A Diary of the Nazi Years, 1933-1941

(Author: Victor Klemperer)

The diary of a Jewish professor as Nazi racial laws bring indignities and then mortal danger.

I Will Bear Witness 1942-1945: A Diary of the Nazi Years

(Author: Victor Klemperer)

The diary of a Jewish professor as Nazi racial laws bring indignities and then mortal danger.

DVD Zone:

Zone 2: Europe, Japan, South Africa, Israel, Lebanon, Middle East

Activities

The Germans invented naturism and getting outdoors and active, with or without clothes, is a national obsession. Try cycling, hiking, mountaineering, skiing and horse riding - you'll find the trails and facilities impeccable. A cruise along some of Germany's great rivers is a more laid-back option. Another of Germany's cultural traditions - the spa - is an excellent way to recover from any kind of exertion.

Tours

Castles in the Air

Until unification in 1871, Germany was a mosaic of fiefdoms whose overseers ruled from the comfort of a Schloss (palace) or Burg (castle). A sentimental favourite among Germans is the Wartburg in Eisenach, most famous as the site where Martin Luther translated the Bible while in hiding. Less well known is Schloss Weesenstein near Dresden, which has its own brewery and 'upstairs-downstairs' exhibits about life at court. Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam is a perennial crowd pleaser, not least because of its charming gardens. You'll find a similar setup at the baroque Schloss Charlottenburg in Berlin, home of the Prussian Hohenzollern clan. The family's ancestral seat - Burg Hohenzollern - is near Tübingen. From a distance, it looks medieval and mysterious, but it's actually a 19th-century neo-Gothic confection, the original long having been destroyed. A similar fate befell Schloss Heidelberg, although much of it survives as a romantic ruin. For more romance, visit the robber barons' hang-outs along the Romantic Rhine, especially the labyrinthian Burg Rheinfels and the pristine Marksburg which, like the Burg Eltz, has never been destroyed. Other outstanding castles include King Ludwig II's delightful Schloss Linderhof and Schloss Schwerin and the Versailles-inspired Residenzschloss in Ludwigsburg.

Transport

getting there and away

(overview)

The main arrival/departure points for flights in Germany are Frankfurt-am-Main, Munich and Düsseldorf. Frankfurt is Europe's busiest airport after Heathrow. An airport departure tax is included in ticket prices. Thanks to the spread of low-cost airlines, it is now often cheaper to fly to Germany from around Europe than to take the train. While train travel is often more expensive than catching a bus, it's generally faster, more comfortable (particularly for overnight travel) and more efficient. Germany is served by an excellent highway system connected to the rest of Western Europe. Roads from Eastern Europe are being upgraded but some border crossings are a little slow, especially from Poland. To enter Germany with a car or motorbike, you must have third-party insurance. Ferries run between Germany's northern coast and Scandinavia and the UK.

getting around

(overview)

Getting around Germany is easy. Domestic air travel is extensive but unless you're in an awful hurry, you might as well save your money - the German train network is wonderful. The eastern and western train systems have now been fully merged. Numerous fares and ticket passes, including Eurailpass and GermanRail Pass are available. There is usually a surcharge for the InterCity Express (ICE) trains but it's worth it to travel 300km/h (190mph) through the German countryside. Forget about buses until you're in train-unfriendly terrain.

German roads are excellent, and motorised transport can be a great way to tour the country, although most towns have problems with car-parking. The national and (in)famous motorway network known as autobahnen can be wonderful - or it can be a nightmare: speed-of-light Porsches and BMWs looming monster-size and impatient in your rear-view mirror are one factor, soul-destroying traffic jams are another. Technically there is no general speed limit on the autobahnen, but, in an effort to increase safety and curb noise pollution, many segments have speed limits ranging from 100km/hr (62mph) to 130km/hr (80mph). On other parts of the autobahn system, high performance sports cars will pass you in excess of 250 kmh (155mph). Be careful!

Bicycle touring in Germany is very popular. There are often separate cycling routes in the cities, towns and in the countryside, but cycling on the autobahnen is strictly verboten.

getting there and away

(air)

Frankfurt International Airport is the main gateway for transcontinental flights, although Düsseldorf and Munich also receive their share of overseas air traffic. There are also sizeable airports in Hamburg, Cologne/Bonn, Stuttgart and Freiburg (EuroAirport), and smaller ones in such cities as Bremen, Dresden, Erfurt, Hanover, Leipzig, Münster-Osnabrück, Nuremberg, Karlsruhe-Baden-Baden and Friedrichshafen.

Some of Europe's new budget airlines - Ryan Air in particular - keep their fares low by flying to some pretty odd and remote airports, some of which are little more than recycled military airstrips. The biggest of these is Frankfurt-Hahn, which is actually near the Moselle River, about 110km (68mi) northwest of Frankfurt proper.

getting there and away

(bus)

There are several budget bus companies that run services to Germany from the rest of Europe and the UK. Prices are very appealing and the buses are getting more and more comfortable; if you're travelling in an off-season (when you might score some room to stretch out) or are travelling short distances, they are often a good budget option.

getting there and away

(car)

Travelling to Germany with your own car or motorcycle is easy. All you need is a valid driving licence, your car registration certificate and proof of insurance. Foreign cars must display a nationality sticker unless they have official Euro-Plates (number plates that include their country's Euro symbol). The main gateways to southern Germany are Munich, Freiburg and Passau. Coming from Poland or the Czech Republic may entail delays at the border.

Coming from the UK, high-speed Eurotunnel shuttle trains whisk cars, motorbikes, bicycles and coaches in 35 minutes from Folkestone through the Channel Tunnel to Coquelles, 5km (3mi) southwest of Calais, in soundproofed and air-conditioned comfort. From there, you can be in Aachen in about three and a half hours.

getting there and away

(rail)

Long-distance trains connecting major German cities with those in other countries are called EuroCity (EC) trains. For longhaul trips the most comfortable option is to take an overnight train. You can choose between Schlafwagen (sleepers), which are comfortable compartments for up to three people, with washbasin; Liegewagen (couchettes), which sleep between four and six people; and Sitzwagen (seat carriage), which have roomy, reclinable seats. On daytime trains, reservations are highly recommended during the peak summer season and around major holidays. They can be made as late as a few minutes before departure.

getting there and away

(water)

The Romanshorn-Friedrichshafen car ferry provides the quickest way across Lake Constance between Switzerland and Germany.

Germany's main ferry ports are Kiel, Lübeck and Travemünde in Schleswig-Holstein, and Rostock and Sassnitz (Rügen Island) in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania. All have services to Scandinavia. Ferries to the UK leave from Cuxhaven in Schleswig-Holstein. Return tickets are often cheaper than two one-way tickets.

getting around

(air)

Most large and many smaller German cities have their own airports and numerous carriers operate domestic flights within Germany.

Unless you're flying from one end of the country to the other, say Berlin-Munich or Hamburg-Munich, planes are only marginally quicker than trains if you factor in the time it takes to get to/from the airports. Fares have become more competitive in recent years but generally prices are designed with business travellers in mind.

getting around

(bicycle)

Bicycle touring through Germany is fun, popular and eminently feasible, in large part because of a dense network of lightly travelled secondary roads and dedicated bike paths. In the cities you'll often find special bike lanes and pavements separated into different sections for pedestrians and cyclists. Bicycles are strictly verboten on the autobahns but can be taken along on most trains. Germany has over 200 well-signposted long-distance routes.

getting around

(bus)

Basically, wherever there is a train, take it. Buses are generally much slower and less dependable, less efficient and less comfortable than trains. There are, however, some regions where the terrain makes train travel more difficult or impossible; the Harz Mountains, sections of the Bavarian Forest, the Black Forest and the Alpine foothills are among such areas. Germany does not have a nationwide bus system, meaning that separate bus companies, each with their own tariffs and schedules, operate in the different regions.

The frequency of service varies dramatically, depending on the destination. It can be as little as three buses daily, and sometimes even fewer at weekends. Routes geared to commuters suspend operations altogether on weekends. If you depend on buses to get around, always keep this in mind or risk finding yourself stuck in a remote place over the weekend.

getting around

(car)

Motoring around Germany is an enjoyable and flexible way to see the country. German roads are generally so excellent that you're less likely to spot a pothole than a UFO. The country's pride and joy are its 11,000km (6835mi) of Autobahnen (motorways, freeways), which extend to all nooks and crannies of the land. These are supplemented by an extensive network of Bundesstrassen (secondary roads, highways). No tolls are charged on public roads. Many tertiary roads have no highway numbers and road signage is often inadequate or confusing so having a good road map a must.

Culture

History Before 20th Century

Germany's hill-and-trough history kicked in early: from the time that everyone's favourite fossils, the Neanderthals, left their jaw-jutting remains in the Neander Valley near Düsseldorf, this joint has been in the thick of it. All of Europe's great empires got their paws into Germany, but none was ever able to count all its inhabitants as faithful subjects. Different pockets of fierce resistance met the Roman legions (50 BC to the 5th century AD), the Frankish conqueror, Charlemagne (up to the early 9th century), and Otto the Great's Holy Roman Empire (from late in the 10th century). By the time the house of Habsburg, ruling from Vienna, took control in the 13th century it was little more than a conglomerate of German-speaking states run by parochial princes.

The Habsburgs muddled on until the devastating Thirty Years War (1618-48), sparked by ongoing religious and nationalist conflicts. Europe had been simmering ever since 1517 when Martin Luther tacked 95 suggestions for improved service to his local church door in Wittenberg. It took a bloody good stoush to settle everyone down and secure the rights of both Protestants and Catholics. Germany lost a third of its population in the process. Local princes assumed complete sovereignty over a patchwork of some 300 states, which made it all too easy for Napoleon to come along in the early 19th century and start adding them to his scrapbook. The French never quite managed to subdue Prussia, which became the centre of German resistance. It was Prussia that led the 1813 war that put an end to Napoleon's German aspirations in a decisive battle at Leipzig. In 1866 Otto von Bismarck, chancellor of Prussia, annexed most of Germany, consolidating his position as the biggest wig in Europe with a resounding victory over France in 1871. The Prussian king, Wilhelm I, was instated as Kaiser and a united Germany hit the world stage for the first time.

Modern History

Wilhelm II dismissed Bismarck in 1890, lingered long enough to lead Germany into WWI, then snuck off to Holland in 1918 when he realised the war wasn't going to end in a ticker-tape parade. Germany struggled with civil unrest and a disastrous peace, uniting only in dislike of the reigning Weimar Republic. Then came Adolf Hitler, an Austrian drifter and German army veteran who was able to turn general disaffection into a focused lunacy. In 1933 his National Socialist German Worker's (or Nazi) Party assumed brutal and absolute authority over Germany. Extravagant military spending and blasé border bending gave way to outright aggression, WWII, and the unrivalled horror of the Holocaust. Even the Germans were surprised by the success of their initial invasions, but by 1943 a litany of heavy losses set the tone for the sluggish march to 1945's unconditional surrender.

Postwar Germany, its cities largely rubble, was divided up between the Allies, with Britain, France and the USA consolidating the western portion into the Federal Republic of Germany, and the Soviet zone transmogrifying into the communist German Democratic Republic. This formula for division was repeated in Berlin. West Germany received massive injections of US capital, attracting many workers from the miserable economic conditions in the East until some bright Communist spark had the idea of building a wall around West Berlin and sealing the rest of the border. The Cold War's icy eye focused on Berlin. Over the next 25 years West Germany became one of the world's most prosperous nations while its communist Siamese sibling suffered. The collapse of communism in Eastern Europe has no more potent symbol than the opening of the Berlin frontier in 1989 - one of world history's better parties.

Recent History

Helmut Kohl's era as chancellor, marked by the reunification of Germany, came to an end in 1998 when a 'red-green' coalition of Social Democrats and Greens took office under Gerhard Schroeder. In 2005 Angela Merkel, a Christian Democrat at the head of a 'grand coalition' with the Social Democrats, became the first woman, the first East German and the first scientist to serve as chancellor.

Although the euphoria of reunification has subsided and there is some resentment and disaffection from both sides, Germany is working towards true unity in typically sedulous fashion. In the 1900s Germany absorbed the majority of refugees from the former Yugoslavia, and these and other immigrants have recently been the targets of racist attacks. However, the extreme right wing, although insidious and occasionally violent, is politically weak. Germany suffers from high unemployment, structural problems in the economy and fierce competition in world markets but at least so far social dislocation has been minimal. In recent years, the economic and social integration of Germany's large Turkish minority has been the subject of public debate.

For most Germans the highlight of 2006 was the FIFA Football World Cup held throughout the country, with the final (won by Italy's Azzurri) held in Berlin. Although the home side failed to win the trophy the event was hugely successful and almost totally trouble-free.

Factoid

Smellpol

When the files of the former East German secret service, the Stasi, were opened up, they were found to contain, among other things, cotton wool swabs of dissidents' body odour, kept in bottles for use by sniffer dogs.

Places of Interest

Stasi Museum

Web site: www.stasi-museum.de

Summary Review:

The one-time headquarters of East Germany's notorious secret police now houses the so-called Stasi Museum. Here you can marvel at cunning surveillance devices, snicker at kitschy communist trinkets and see the austere office of longtime Stasi chief Erich Mielke, once the most feared man in the GDR.

Schloss Neuschwanstein

Web site: www.hohenschwangau.de

Summary Review:

Appearing through the mountain-top mist like a surreal fantasy is the world's best-known castle, Schloss Neuschwanstein. Ludwig II planned this castle himself with the help of a stage designer rather than an architect. It was conceived as a giant stage to recreate the world of Germanic mythology immortalised in the operatic works of Richard Wagner.

Full Review:

Construction started in 1869 and, like so many of Ludwig's grand schemes, was never finished. For all the money spent on it, the king spent just over 170 days in residence.

Neuschwanstein's centrepiece is the lavish Sängersaal (Minstrels' Hall). Wall frescoes in the hall depict scenes from the opera Tannhäuser. Though the hall wasn't used during Ludwig's time, concerts are now held there every September.

Other completed sections include: Ludwig's bedroom, dominated by a huge Gothic-style bed crowned with intricately carved Gothic spires; a gaudy artificial grotto (another allusion to Tannhäuser); and the Byzantine Thronsaal (Throne Room) with a great mosaic floor and a chandelier shaped like a giant crown.

Neuschwanstein served as the model for the Sleeping Beauty Castles at the original Disneyland in California and the new Hong Kong Disneyland.

The wooded hills framing the castle make for some wonderful walks. For the postcard view of Neuschwanstein and the plains beyond, walk 10 minutes up to Marienbrücke (Mary's Bridge), which spans the spectacular Pöllat Gorge over a waterfall just above the castle.

Goethe Haus

Web site: www.goethehaus-frankfurt.de

Summary Review:

Anyone with an interest in German literature should visit Goethe Haus, the birthplace of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe in 1749. Goethe lived here until moving to Weimar in 1775, an act that many Frankfurters find hard to forgive. It was also here that Goethe penned his ode to suicide, The Sorrows of Young Werther, and began work on Faust.

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The house is a wonderful example of how Frankfurt's well-to-do lived in the 18th century. The rooms are nicely decorated with a mix of reproduction and original furniture, offering a glimpse of 18th-century domestic life. Highlights are Goethe's original writing desk and the library.

Schloss Linderhof

Web site: www.linderhof.de

Summary Review:

A trove of weird treasures, Schloss Linderhof was Ludwig II's smallest but most sumptuous palace. Finished in 1878, the palace hugs a hillside in a landscape of French gardens, fountains and follies. The reclusive king rarely received visitors here. Like Herrenchiemsee, Linderhof was inspired by Versailles and dedicated to Louis XIV, the French 'sun king'.

Full Review:

Linderhof's myth-laden, jewel-encrusted rooms are a monument to the king's excesses that so unsettled the governors in Munich. The private bedroom is the largest room, heavily ornamented and anchored by an enormous 108-candle crystal chandelier weighing 500kg (79 stone). An artificial waterfall, built to cool the room in summer, cascades just outside the window.

The dining room reflects the king's fetish for privacy and inventions. The king ate from a mechanised dining board that sank through the floor to be laid in the kitchen below so that his servants could replenish it without being seen.

The gardens and outbuildings are as fascinating as the castle itself. The highlight is the oriental-style Moorish Kiosk, where Ludwig, dressed in oriental garb, would preside over nightly entertainment from a peacock throne. Underwater light dances on the stalactites at the Venus Grotto, an artificial cave inspired by a stage set for Wagner's Tannhäuser. Underwater lighting (a pioneering technical achievement for the time) illuminates the room and the empty conch-shaped boat waiting by the shore.

Romantic Road

Web site: www.romantischestrasse.de

Summary Review:

Two million people ply the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road) every year, making it by far the most popular of Germany's holiday routes. That means lots of signs in English and Japanese, tourist coaches and kitsch galore. Running north-south through western Bavaria, the Romantic Road covers 420km (261mi) between Würzburg and Füssen near the Austrian border.

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For the most part the trail rolls through pleasant, if not spectacular, landscape that links some two dozen cities and towns, including Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Dinkelsbühl and Augsburg.

Locals get their cut of the Romantic Road hordes through, among other things, scores of good-value private accommodation offerings. Look for the Zimmer Frei signs.

Füssen

Web site: www.fuessen.de

Summary Review:

One of the last stops on the Romantic Road, Füssen is a small town nestled between towering Alpine peaks and Schwangau. Together these towns form the Royal Corner, home to King Ludwig Wilhelm II's fantasy castles. Ludwig II didn't get along with his ministers and relatives who had him diagnosed as unfit to rule; soon after, he was found mysteriously drowned.

Full Review:

The king's legacy consists of the three fantastical castles he had built near Füssen: Neuschwanstein, Herrenchiemsee and Linderhof.

But there's more to Füssen than its castles. Its compact centre, with its tangle of lanes, is full of historical buildings; check out the Hohes Schloss. There are excellent views from the top of Tegelbergbahn, reached by cable car, and nearby are the Bavarian Alps.

Aachen Dom

Web site: www.aachendom.de

Summary Review:

The oldest and most precious section of Aachen Dom is Charlemagne's Pfalzkapelle (palace chapel), an exquisite example of Carolingian architecture. Completed in 800, the year of the emperor's coronation, it's an octagonal dome encircled by a 16-sided, two-story ambulatory supported by antique pillars from Italy.

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Suspended from the 31m (101ft) high dome hangs a colossal brass chandelier, donated by Emperor Friedrich Barbarossa during whose reign Charlemagne was canonised in 1165.

Pilgrims have poured into town ever since, drawn as much by the cult surrounding Charlemagne as by the prized relics - said to include Christ's loincloth - he had brought to Aachen. These are still displayed every seven years; the next time in 2007. A Gothic choir was fused to the chapel in 1414 and filled with priceless treasure. Highlights include the pala d'oro and the jewel-encrusted gilded copper pulpit, both fashioned in the 11th century. At the far end is the shrine of Charlemagne, a golden extravaganza that has held the emperor's remains since 1215.

Unless you join a German-language tour, you'll only catch a glimpse of Charlemagne's white marble imperial throne in the upstairs gallery. Reached via six steps - just like King Solomon's throne - it served as the coronation throne of 30 German kings between 936 and 1531.

Schloss Hohenschwangau

Web site: www.hohenschwangau.de

Summary Review:

Ludwig II spent his childhood at the sun-yellow Schloss Hohenschwangau. Originally built by Schwangau knights during the 12th century, the palace's current form dates from the 1830s after Ludwig's father, Maximilian II, had the ruin reconstructed in neo-Gothic fashion. It's less ostentatious than the fairy-tale Neuschwanstein and has a lived-in feeling.

Full Review:

It was here that Ludwig first met Wagner, and the Hohenstaufensaal features a square piano where the composer would entertain Ludwig with excerpts from his latest oeuvre. Some rooms feature frescoes from German history and legends (including the Wagner subject Lohengrin, the Swan Knight).

After his father died, Ludwig's main alteration was having stars, illuminated with hidden oil-lamps, painted on the ceiling of his bedroom.

Brandenburg Gate

Summary Review:

One of Berlin's most photographed locations, Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) once marked the impenetrable boundary between East and West Berlin. Built in 1791, Brandenburger Tor has often been a centre stage for Berlin's militant political rallies, including the memorable celebrations in November 1989, when the Berlin Wall was torn down.

Full Review:

This imposing 18th-century structure has endured several symbolic reincarnations. Intended by its architect Carl Gotthard Langhans to be a symbol of peace, the gate was crowned by the Quadriga (a four-horse chariot driven by the winged goddess of victory) a couple of years later, turning it into a monument to Prussian militarism.

Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, political groups from all ideological walks hijacked the pliable Brandenburger Tor as the backdrop for their rallies and processions. All this triumphalism ended abruptly in 1961 when the Wall was built and the gate sealed off in no-man's-land.

In 1989, after the dissolution of the border, the area was reopened to the public. Today, traffic passes freely under the gate while nearby, enterprising scammers sell chunks of Berlin Wall concrete, mostly of dubious provenance.

Black Forest

Web site: www.blackforest-tourism.com

Summary Review:

Home of the cuckoo clock, the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) gets its name from its dark, slightly sinister canopy of evergreens: this is where Hansel and Gretel encountered the wicked witch. The vast expanse of hills, valleys, rivers and forests stretch from the swish spa town of Baden-Baden to the Swiss border, and from the Rhine almost to Lake Constance.

Full Review:

Twenty minutes walk - or a five-minute bike ride - fom populated spots will almost always put you out in nature - in the middle of quiet countryside dotted with traditional farmhouses and amiable dairy cows, perhaps, or in a thick forest where Little Red Riding Hood's wolf may lurk.

The northern section, with its hilly but relatively gentle terrain is home to several charming towns. Freudenstadt makes a good base for exploring the Northern area. Many of the Schwarzwald's most impressive sights are in the triangle delimited by the lively university city of Freiburg, 15km (9.3mi) east of the Rhine in the southwest; Triberg, cuckoo clock capital of Creation, in the north; and the charming river-valley city of St Blasien in the southeast. Even smaller towns in the area generally have tourist offices.

German Skiing Federation

Web site: www.ski-online.de

Summary Review:

Deutsche Skiverband (German Skiing Federation) is a good central resource for skiiers wanting information about locations, conditions and prices.

USA Embassy

Web site: www.us-botschaft.de

UK Embassy

Web site: www.britischebotschaft.de

Deutscher Alpenverein (German Alpine Club)

Web site: www.alpenverein.de

Summary Review:

The Deutscher Alpenverein is a good resource for information on walking and mountaineering, and has over 350 local chapters throughout Germany. It also maintains numerous Alpine mountain huts, many of them open to the public, where you can spend the night and get a meal. Their website is in German only.

German National Tourist Office

Web site: www.germany-tourism.de

Summary Review:

A useful resource for tourists; it also has an entire section dedicated to information about vacationing in Germany with a disability with helpful links.

Natko

Web site: www.natko.de

Summary Review:

The National Tourism Coordination Agency for All People is a central clearing house for inquiries about travelling in Germany as a person with a disability. Has lots of links to local agencies.

German Lesbian & Gay Federation

Web site: www.lsvd.de

Summary Review:

Lesben- und Schwulenverband Deutschland fights for gay and lesbian rights, and legal and social equality.

Japanese Embassy

Web site: www.botschaft-japan.de

Australian Embassy

Web site: www.australian-embassy.de

Home Company

Web site: www.home-company.de

Summary Review:

Home Company is a nationwide network of flat-sharing agencies that can arrange long-term rentals; its website has all the details, also in English.

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